Fox Tango International Presents the Evolution of the "FL" Amplifier

A look at what's inside FL-1000 ~ 2100Z

  Most amateur radio operators of the 21st century are well acquainted with the world renown FT-101 and the matching line of accessories including the FL-2100B compact 1200w PEP linear amplifier.  The FL-2100B is know for it's reliability, using rugged 572B amplifier tubes, high quality construction and it's reasonable selling price on the second hand market.  However the evolution of a great amplifier like the FL-2100 series did not happen over night, lets take a tour through the various amplifiers.  By the time Yaesu (Wireless) Musen introduced it's original "F" line in 1964 it was quickly followed up by a refined "F" series in 1965 with transceiver capability and a matching 1200w PEP input linear amplifier.

 

Yaesu FL-1000

   Starting with the Yaesu FL-1000, the companion amplifier for the Yaesu "F" line.

The FL-1000 uses four 6JS6C final amplifier tubes in ground grid configuration with capacitor

coupling input  to the cathodes and no tune input circuitry.   Rated at 1200 watts PEP INPUT typical

power output will run 450 watts or slightly more with good strong tubes.

 (Web master's FL-1000 W4CLM)

 

Type:

All-mode HF linear amplifier Class AB2.

Frequency range:

3.5 ~ 28 Mhz

Voltage:

100/110/200/220 A.C. 50/60 Hz

Current drain:

xxxx

Drive power:

30 to 100 watts exciter

Maximum input power:

960 watts PEP maximum

Dimensions (W*H*D):

13"  X  7 -1/8"  X  11-3/4"

Weight:

20 Kg Approx.

Manufactured:

Japan, 1965

Other:

 4X 6JS6A  Plate Voltage  850Vdc

Output Impedance

50~75 Ohms

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Take a look at the original 1965 FL-1000 advertisement
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Schematic, Top  and bottom views of the FL-1000

 

It's interesting to look at the FL amplifiers that follow in progression things of interest to note are the general layout of the power supply, RF deck, cooling fans and similarities from one amplifier to the next.

Click for larger image.Click for larger image. The four 6JS6A tubes stand up vertically and a single fan is attached to the back of the cabinet.
Click for larger image.Click for larger image. A closer look into the FL-1000 PA Cage

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A look under the FL-1000

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FL-1000 Power supply

 

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Underside of the FL-1000 RF deck

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FL-1000 TR Relay

As we continue our tour of the various FL-Amplifiers we will notice a lot of similarities in circuitry lay out,

 and components used.  The TR Relay you see in the above picture needed to be replaced, not surprising for an amplifier manufactured in 1965.  The TR relay I chose as a replacement for my early FL-1000 is the same antenna relay used in the FL-2100B and still currently available through Yaesu parts. (RL-1 P/N M1090001)

 

Yaesu FLdx2000

October of 1967 the FLdx-2000 used four 6KD6 sweep tubes in ground grid configuration.  Much like the earlier FL-1000 this amplifier had no tuned input circuitry. The input signal was fed from the input SO-239 to RL-1 and was used capacitor coupled to the 6KD6 cathodes.  This method worked quite well with the transceiver of the same era. The final amplifier stage of the transceiver was tuned for maximum power transfer to the linear amplifier. Not unlike today's modern  solid state transceivers which need to see 50 Ohm load and minimum standing wave ratio for maximum power transfer into the amplifier.

 

Type:

All-mode HF linear amplifier AB2

Frequency range:

3.5 ~ 28 Mhz

Voltage:

100/110/117/220 A.C. 50/60 Hz

Current drain:

xxxx

Drive power:

30 to 100 watts PEP

Maximum input power:

1,200 watts PEP

Dimensions (W*H*D):

14-9/16"  X  6-5/16"  X  11-7/16"

Weight:

20 Kg Approx.

Manufactured:

Japan, 1967

Other:

 4X 6KD6 Plate Voltage 1200 Vdc

Output Impedance

50~75 Ohms

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FL2000 Top and Bottom Views

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The four 6KD6 amplifier tubes laid horizontally in the PA cage and used

a single fan for forced air cooling under the PA compartment.

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Yaesu FL2000B



FL2000B September 1969 with the introduction of the FL200B Yaesu made a significant step forward by moving away from using sweep tubes in it's linear amplifiers and using two parallel Cetron triode 572B final amplifier tubes in grounded grid configuration.

 

Type:

All-mode HF linear amplifier

Frequency range:

3.5 ~ 28 Mhz

Voltage:

100/110/117/220 A.C. 50/60 Hz

Current drain:

117V=17 Amps 234V=9 Amps

Drive power:

100W

Maximum input power:

SSB: 1500W PEP; CW 1000W

Dimensions (W*H*D):

 

Weight:

55 Lbs

Manufactured:

Japan, 1969

Other:

 2X Cetron 572B Triode in Parallel

Output Impedance

50~75 Ohms

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Other improvements included individual tuned input coils

 and dual cooling fans one for each of the PA tubes much like the later FL-2100B.

Yaesu FL2500

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Yaesu's "Grand Linear" Amplifier rated at 1500 watts input power with 100 watts drive.

Unlike prior amplifiers manufactured by Yaesu this amplifier can be operated from 1.9 Mhz to 28 Mhz amateur bands. With dual fans for cooling the five horizontally mounted 6KD6 output tubes.

February of 1971 the FL2500 used FIVE Horizontally mounted 6KD6 tubes.

1.9 Mhz to 28 Mhz

 

Type:

All-mode HF linear amplifier

Frequency range:

1.9 ~ 28 Mhz

Voltage:

100/110/117/220 A.C. 50/60 Hz

Current drain:

xxxx

Drive power:

100W

Maximum input power:

1500W D.C.

Dimensions (W*H*D):

370mm X 160mm X 290mm

Weight:

22 Kg

Manufactured:

Japan, 1971

Other:

 5X 6KD6

Output Impedance

50~75 Ohms

Also sold in Europe by the importers Sommerkamp,

as the Sommerkamp FL2500

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FL2500 Schematic diagram

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The meter is dual purpose. It will read plate current & also doubles as a Forward/SWR meter.

There is a switch next to the meter for CW/Tune (top position), SSB (bottom position).

Yaesu FL-2100 /B/F

Probably the best known and most often seen amplifier in this series is the FL-2100B.
  The FL-2100B was designed as a conservatively rated matching amplifier for use with the FT-101E and matching accessories.

There were three variations that looked and for all practical purposes worked the same

The original FL2100, The FL2100B and the FL-2100F (Less 10 meter operation)

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From CQ Ham Radio Japan December 1971

You see here the original FL2100

FL-2100

Type:

All-mode HF linear amplifier

Frequency range:

3.5 ~ 28 Mhz

Voltage:

100/110/117/220 A.C. 50/60 Hz

Current drain:

xxxx

Drive power:

30~100W

Maximum input power:

1200 W( SSB) 800 W(CW).

Dimensions (W*H*D):

340mm X 153mm X 285mm

Weight:

18.5 Kg

Manufactured:

Japan, 1971

Other:

 2X Cetron 572B Triode

Output Impedance

50~75 Ohms

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FL-2100 Schematic Diagram

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FL2100B

One of the nice features of the 2100 Linear Amplifier over that of the earlier models was the use of dual front panel meters which provided continuous monitoring of plate current and voltage. The FL-2100 features two rugged 572B carbon plate tubes in class B grounded-grid circuit with individually tuned input coils for each band.

 

 


SOMMERKAMP FL2277 (Same as FL2100)

One can hardly tell any difference from an FT-101E Sold in Europe by the Swiss importers as  the Sommerkamp FT-277E, along with the Yaesu FL-2100 amplifier sold as the Sommerkamp FT2277 linear amplifier.

 

Sommerkamp was a Swiss firm that sold all kind of communication equipment on the European market, mainly to Germany and Italy.  Sommerkamp did not produced anything themselves, they bought big lots of equipment direct from Yaesu and other manufacturers, and sold them under their own brand, not unlike Radio Shack does in the USA. It started already with the FR-50 and FL-50 series.  Normally they bought standard equipment, but now and then they had something produced on their own specifications, (FTDX series) or CB stuff, that where sold in big numbers.  So: every Sommerkamp is in fact a Yaesu (or other brand). The only thing, original Sommerkamp is the nameplate. Wim Penders PA0PGA
 

 

 

 

 

 

FL2100F Adding 10 Meters to your FL-2100F

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The FL-2100F prepped for surgery and the addition of 10 meters

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In the photo above you are looking at the rear input band selector switch. If you look closely, just below the 33 Ohm resistor in the middle of the input and from the left the third Mica capacitor over. You see the white part of the switch, this would normally have had a 10m contact but it's missing. In order to complete the 10m input circuit (S2b) will have to be replaced.

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What you are looking at here S2b removed and you see the tuned circuit input to the FL-2100F, the coil to the right is not yet hooked up. This is new for 10 meters. Also you will need two more ceramic doorknob capacitors along with your new front and rear band switches for 10 meters to work .
 

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C211 200pf (Same as FL-2100B)
  C215 100pf (Same as FL-2100B)
  L206 10 meter input coil  P/N L0020710

Add on 10 meters for the FL-2100F model amplifier.

New input circuit coil, two new ceramic doorknob capacitors and front and rear band switches were required to do the job.

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While you're at it, you may as well clean up the inside of the amplifier real good!

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Close up of the band switch position on the FT-101F with the new 10 meter position working. On the -F- model in order to do the job, you need to replace both front and back, input and output band switches. IT'S A JOB !! I bought this from a really super person on Fox Tango. My good friend Rick KA4ZSG. This is the finished amplifier after installing front and rear band switches for 10 meters. The FL-2100F did not come with the 10m band, thanks to  FCC rulings on linear amplifier operation that could possibly be used on Citizens Band in the United States.

Parts Required for 10m add on

10 meter add on kit for the **FL-2100F** Yaesu P/N D3000037 (Sold out)
The kit consisted of
  C211 200pf K24356201 (Same as FL-2100B)  $9.20
  C215 100pf K24356101  (Same as FL-2100B)  $9.20
  L206 10 meter input coil  P/N L0020710    $9.92
   Front Band SW N0050008 With 10 meter contact  (No longer available) was  $35.25 USD
   Front Band SW Replace with  front Band Switch N0050034B  $68.35
   Rear  Band SW N0050009 With 10 meter contact  $25.65

Total for caps, coil and switches was $122.32 .

 

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Pix "A"

Pix "B"

Pix "C"

 

Thinking of buying a used FL2100B 

or just doing an Overhaul on your FL2100B?

Check that band switch!

FL-2100B (S1a)  See: Pix "A" & Pix "B" band switch closest to the front of the amp. You can see that the contacts for the 75 meter capacitors which get switched in on this band were literally burned off in both photos. I can not give you a better example of this as in photo "B" had to be just about one of the worse cases of band switch destruction that I've seen in a long time! This is not an uncommon problem to see in the FL-2100 series amplifiers and band switches are expensive if you can even find one. I can provide you with example after example of band switches that have burned up either due to poor operator habits or parasitic oscillations in FL-2100 amplifiers. One thing that may help in this situation is Richard Measures parasitic kit as noted below which should help stabilize the amplifier on 10 meters.   See:Pix "C" as the 10 meter portion of S1B is burned off in this photo.  Below See: 1977 Yaesu bulletin CA:128 Referencing  band switch problems

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Fire in the Hole Boys!

1977 Yaesu bulletin CA:128 Referencing  band switch problems

 

Click for larger view. FL-2100B band switch repair.  The entire front panel will have to be removed from the amplifier to do this job. Band switches if they can be found are very expensive. When buying an amp check that ALL bands are working to avoid having to do this job.
Click for larger view. While your doing an overhaul on any amplifier with High Voltage and high power RF, make an extra effort to check everything.  As you can see with a flashlight behind these ceramic capacitors, you can literally see light coming through the capacitors. Anytime you are using High Voltage & High power RF in an amplifier, you need to look for problems like this and you need to replace these.

Note: C222 takes a lot of heat from the 572B finals, if it's cracked or shows any signs of failure, replace it.  C222 is the output coupling capacitor that feeds the tank circuit, it can be seen in the photo above to the far right.  This ceramic capacitor was removed from a working amplifier, but it's a time bomb lurking around for a small disaster, the. cracks were due to heat in the PA compartment.  Below you'll note  GOOD YAESU PART NUMBERS FOR THE FL-2100 Series ceramic capacitors, make note of them.  When ordering replacements someone change two number when ordering C222 K24356102, I was sent a K31356102 Mica Cap cap Axial leads 1000PF @ 16.82 ea.  Using Yaesu part numbers all of the CERAMICS start out K24..... and the MICAS are K313.....something.  So always double check your part numbers when ordering and make sure the parts dept send you the right part.

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C222 center

Ceramic Capacitors For your FL-2100/FL-2100B/**FL-2100F**
Schematic #        Description                  Yaesu#
215, 224               100pf                     K24356101    $9.20
2212, 217             250pf                     K24356251
211, 216               200pf                     K24356201   $9.20
226                       300pf                     K24356301   $9.20
221, 222             1000pf                     K24356102   $9.15  (RDA30 3Kv)
223                      500pf                      K24356501   $9.15

  

Click for larger view. This amplifier was a real mess when I got it.  Regretfully I did not take pictures before I started. But what you see here is Nicotine gravy on the main RFC and a new RFC to the right which is going into the amp along with the new band switch. This amp was full of nicotine and a real mess, even the dual cooling fans under the RF deck would hardly turn form solidified nicotine. Plate RFC Inductor  Yaesu P/n  L10220655  $21.45 USD
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The FL-2100B was full of Nicotine Gravy when I started and the band switch was burned on 75 meters. This is what it looked like after I cleaned inside and a new band switch was installed.

Click for larger view. This is the way your amplifier will look if you have to change out a band switch, you need to check for other things like cracked parasitic resistors, cracked ceramic doorknob capacitors, and make sure the fans are clean and run fast.

 

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 See more on fans below

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Various pictures with the tank circuit removed and PA cage ready for cleanup.

Click for larger view.This is the front panel from an FL-2100B removed. Cleaned, touched up with paint where needed with new plastic put on the panel. It looked like it was factory new when finished.

 

Yaesu Technical Bulletin:

Fl-2100B Amplifier Bias Modification For Svetlana and Taylor 572B tubes

 

Thinking of buying a used FL2100B ?

When buying any FL-2100 series amplifier some of the things you want to look for in this amplifier are burned parasitic resistors, 22 ohms ( 2 watt resistors) on the plates of the 572B tubes. Burned band switch contacts as noted in Pix "A, B & C" above. Burned 33 ohm (1 watt resistors) in the grid circuit under the rear cover in the back of the amplifier. Fans turning slow or not turning (Clean them & Reference the Fan Photos.)  High Voltage should be up to 2.4 KV and slightly higher about 2.6 Kv when running the amplifier on 220 VAC input.

One word of caution, be very careful when working with the covers off and the power on the amplifier, if you have to do this.  Also note there is a safety interlock under the cover of the PA cage cover. This switch will put a ground DIRECTLY ON YOUR HIGH VOLTAGE power supply when the RF tank circuit top shield is removed.  I have seen it plenty of times where the 47K ohm R207 in series with the switch is burned open which indicates someone turned on the amp with the lid off of the top shield off of the tank circuit and the interlock was not defeated.  If you need to service your amplifier with the high voltage and power on  while the top shield of the PA cage is removed, you will need to disable the safety lock switch S7. But be CAREFUL of the H.V. if you do this.

Typically these amplifiers will give you about 450 watts on the low side and up to 600 watts output with new tubes and wired for 220 VAC input.  RF parts is selling TAYLOR tubes which they recommend for these in your  amplifier.  I for one have always tried to install CETRON tubes as they were original from the Yaesu factory with Cetron 572B tubes installed, however Cetron 572B tubes are no longer manufactured and the TAYLORS from RF parts work just fine.   As a matter of fact I'm convinced now that they work great, just as well as the Cetron tubes ever did.  I do not recommend putting Sylvetlana tubes in these amplifiers, if you look closely at the Russian 572B tubes, the plate area is much smaller when compared to the new Tayolor tube.  It's my understanding too that the Russian tubes do not hold up nearly as well when operated in a horizontal position.  I have used the Sylvetlana tubes in place of 811 tubes in such amplifiers as the Ameritron 811H amplifier and they worked great in a vertical position in place of the type 811 amplifier tube, not like that of the FL-2100 series or the Heathkit SB-200 amplifiers.

RF parts also recommend a bias modification be done on the FL-2100/B in order for you to get their 1 year warranty on the TAYLOR tubes.  This modification came from a Yaesu Technical Bulletin.  I did this to one of my amplifiers and the bias is adjusted for 0.03 amps on the IP meter.   The owners manual for the FL-2100B says to adjust your bias to (90 mili amps)  0.090 amps.  My gut feeling after having done this modification is that at 0.030 amps it a bit low for a pair these tubes to idle and I would not do the modification again.  I can only assume the technical bulletin was sent out by Yaesu to extend the life of the tubes.

 

Wiring your FL-2100 amplifier for

220 VAC Europe Vs. (117V VAC) or what can be nearly 250 VAC USA!

Much discussion has been made about proper wiring of the FL-2100 series amplifiers for so called 220 VAC operation here in the states. If you would like to read the entire thread you can read the comments in more detail on the club public forum see: Click here to visit the thread  In order to keep it brief I will say this much about the subject. With proper wiring here in the USA you should really be using the two 117 VAC primaries of the amplifier in series Vs. using the two 110 VAC windings. Two hundred and twenty volts is not really two hundred and twenty volts here in the USA and you can be putting your amplifier under undo stress and possibly lead to premature breakdown of components and eventually amplifier failure.  This is important to consider due to the fact that many of the parts such as band switches are no longer available from the manufacturer along with high voltage doorknob type capacitors have become costly and often difficult to find.

If you wire your amplifier for 220 VAC as per the owners manual your plate voltage will rise to approximately 2,600 VDC.   When running the FL-2100 on 117 VAC you typically have 2,400 VDC on the plate voltage meter.  Now 200 Volds DC on the plates of your tubes may not sound like much in the overall scheme of life, but is the trade off  with the small amount of power gained in comparison to the heat and stress on the components, is it really worth it? That will be for you to decide.  My suggestions for what it's worth, if you live in the United States and you like your amplifier, It's child's play to move the taps over placing the two 117 VAC windings in series, I did exactly this and now my DC plate voltage has dropped back to where it should be running at 2400 volts. (Note the links below for wiring pictures)  Now I can more safely run my amplifier on what is nearly 250 VAC coming into the shack and not have to worry about such things as line loss or overloading a smaller 117 VAC circuit with high current when running the amplifier.

To bring this into better view for you. I measured my so called 220VAC line into my home and I have more like 250 VAC!  That's a lot when you take into consideration the Peak to Peak voltage and so forth, it's likely pushing the amp pretty hard when it's wired using the two 110 VAC primaries in series while trying to use the amplifier here in the USA.  Likely outside the USA, in Europe and elsewhere the use of 220 VAC really means 220 VAC and surely it's kept much closer to specifications.  In fact if you think about it you may also recall here in the United States years ago we use to call it  110 VAC, it's my understanding the voltage was pushed slightly higher to make up for such things as excessive line loss getting the current all the way to ones homes throughout the country!

To clarify for you, I took a several pictures of the before and after 220 VAC wiring.  Lets call the side of our plate wiring diagram nearest the transformer end in the picture the TOP and the front panel the bottom as it will come up in my pictures.  If we have our amp wired as per the owners manual (For 220)
you should have one of the input leads going to 110 contact.

Move it up to 117 VAC at the TOP of the plate wiring diagram.

In the center as per the book count down four screw contacts and you see the Zero leave this where it's connected, however the of this jumper is connected to the next 110 contact down the line.  LEAVE THE ZERO contact where it is and move the lead from 110 up to 117VAC contact.

Lastly you should have another ZERO contact at the bottom
(Nearest the front panel) LEAVE IT WHERE IT IS.

In Summary a picture is worth a thousand words:  (The way the books shows to do it)
220VAC Europe

http://foxtango.org/amplifiers/graphics/FL2100_220VAC_EuropeSmall.jpg

234VAC USA (Both 117VAC primaries in series)
http://foxtango.org/amplifiers/graphics/FL2100_234VAC_USASmall.jpg

OH & PS:
By the way that extra jumper you wind up with when going from 117 to 220, just double it up so you don't loose it. Better not to have it flopping around in the amp some place. It won't hurt to do this note the center contacts. Save that extra jumper lead if you have one in case you
ever want to wire it back to 117VAC. Just do this. Shown for Europe 220VAC.
http://foxtango.org/amplifiers/graphics/Double_UpSmall.jpg

 

AG6K modifications for  572B amplifiers

 By Richard Measures AG6K

Having had a nice conversation with Richard (AG6K) today on the telephone has given me more insight into the modifications he suggested for amplifiers in general, the "Q" of the parasitic chokes and parasitic oscillations.  I recommend you look at Richards writings and give this some though for modifying your amplifier.  His kit will require that you change out your parasitic chokes with  Metal Oxide Film resistors to lower the Q of the parasitic chokes, lowering the grid resistors to 30 Ohms and adding in a couple of by pass capacitors on the grounded grid circuit.  And one additional interesting feature of Richard's kit is the addition of a 15 Ohm Omite current limiting resistor in the plate H.V. lead to limit the current, should by chance the amplifier see any oscillation and briefly draw high current.  For more information on Richards writings see this link: Improved Anode-Circuit Parasitic-Suppression For Modern Amplifier-Tubes

My gut feeling on this is to use the original 22 Ohm 2w resistors if you can still find them. If and when they are no longer available then you might consider looking into Richards parasitic chokes a little more closely. 

 

 

Can we talk?

Briefly about Fans!

 

If you have not already noticed. All of the Yaesu linear amplifier mentioned above used Forced Air cooling and every amplifier has used the same exact fan since day one, including the optional FT-101 transceiver fan!  Every amplifier and every transmitter needs to move so much (CFM) cubic feet per minute of air over the valve to keep it cool at it's full rated power input for the tube as designed.  That being said the FL-2100 amplifier is no different and you need to check that your fans have not slowed down due to nicotine sludge build up over the years.  The fans can be disassembled and cleaned, or in the least oiled. If you can't feel the air flowing out of the top of the amplifier you really need to check your fans as they should moving fast note the pictures below.

 

Lets take a look.

Click for larger view. This fan looks innocent enough having just been pulled from the rear of a transceiver.
Click for larger view. Looking behind it we see caked on dirt!
Click for larger view. Pulling it apart reveals a NIGHT MARE!
Click for larger view. Your FL-2100 series amplifier has the same exact fan as used in your transceiver except it's not encased in a housing.
Click for larger view. When doing an overhaul remove, clean and lubricate the fans if necessary, they should turn fast and spin down on their own once the power is removed.
Click for larger view. This is more typical of a dirty fan your likely to encounter.
Click for larger view. Fan Disassembly
Click for larger view.

I recommend soaking the front and back bearing in solvent over night  to remove any heavy sticky residue. Use a heavy lubricant when you reassemble the fan pushing the lubricant with your thumbs into the front and back bearing assemblies.

 

Click for larger view.

Carefully, you will need to test your fan to make sure the armature turns freely in the field coil before you tighten up the hardware. Keep in mind the Japanese fans in your amplifier and transceiver were designed to run on 100 VAC @ 60 CPS. It's best if you have a VARIAC  to test them at 100 VAC. If not you can briefly test them using an AC line cord and 117 VAC, use electrical tape on your connections and be very careful.  You will need to test the fan again once it's installed into the case  housing  for the transceivers fan.

Yaesu FL-2100Z


 
Type: All-mode HF linear amplifier

 AB Grounded Grid

Frequency range: 10-160 m + WARC
Voltage: 100~117VAC  200~234 VAC
Current drain: 117V @ 18 Amps / 220V @ 9 Amps
Drive power: 100 watts PEP for full output
Maximum output power: CW: 1000Watts  (input)
SSB: 1.2 00 Watts  (PEP input)
Dimensions (W*H*D): 157 X 345 X  326mm
Weight: 20 Kg
Manufactured: Japan, 19xx-19xx
Other: 2 X 572B
Related documents:  

 

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A look inside the FL-2100Z

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Tuned Input circuit FL-2100Z

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A look into the bottom of the FL2100Z

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FT-902DM Station with the FL2100Z

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How sweet it is !

 

 

More details to follow on the 2100Z

 

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W4CLM CL. Maher

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